Balayage artistry is all about timing, fluidity, and technique. Within these themes are the integral tools and products used to get the healthiest, most gorgeous hair possible. That’s where the master comes into play. One of our favorite Balayage Artists, Chad Kenyon, knows all about creating the perfect balayage (just ask his clients). Whether it be the actors on the Big Screen to massive Social Media Influencers, his elite clientele have him to thank for their double-take worthy manes.
We were lucky enough to pop-in while he was working on X-Men Origins: Wolverine and John Carter actress, Lynn Collins, to snag some tips. Lynn has stunning long brown hair that drops below the waist, so for this service, Chad implemented a back-combing technique to give her a natural, diffused look.
Before
Chad uses Olaplex No. 1 in every single formulation from lightener and demi color, to permanent color and glosses.
Base Color: INOA Ammonia-Free Permanent Color: mix 15g 6.07 + 15g 5.17 + 30g 6.0 with 20 volume INOA developer, then add in 1.875ml Olaplex No.1
Foilage Formula: Mix Solaris Clay-Based Lightener from Eugene Perma Paris with 40 volume. Then Chad added a few droplets of Olaplex No.1. “I get powerful bond building with just those droplets and my processing time is fast” says Kenyon.
Chad says, “I generally do three sections and start in the back, then move to the front. By the time I am done balayaging the first front section, the back section is ready to rinse. So I rinse, apply No.2, clip up and head back to the chair to paint the final front section. I repeat this process until all sections are ready. Then, I return to the bowl, rinse all of the No.2 (no shampoo) and apply the gloss. I do this so I do not need extra time after the gloss for the No.2. It is already worked into my process with zero time added.”
Backcombing can be a very fickle thing to remove. It’s not just about detangling the hair– many variables arise, such as keeping your client comfortable and keeping their hair healthy. That’s why Chad uses Olaplex No.2 to help him unravel the hair and rebuild broken bonds at the same time.
Chad’s Tips for Removing Backcombing With Olaplex No. 2:
First, saturate and massage the backcombed area generously with Olaplex No.2. Next, start at the bottom of the backcombed area, brushing gently in downward motions and working your way upward as you detangle. Reapply Olaplex No. 2 as needed to keep the backcombing creamy and reconstructive.
Kenyon says, “It is important to keep in mind the lifestyle, the career, and the daily rhythm of the client that you are coloring. In this case, Lynn is on set and doing photo shoots often, so her hair is being styled quite regularly with heat tools in different cities, with different water– all of these variables affect the hair color and how long the tone that I deliver will actually last on the hair. Therefore, I am adamant about using Olaplex No.1 in my glosses, as it helps the gloss last the maximum amount of time. That is the trick to long lasting glosses and toners– Olaplex No.1.”
Gloss Formula: Mix Redken Shades EQ 25ml 9n + 15ml 8v + 10ml 7gb + 50 ml shades processing solution, then add in 1.875ml Olaplex No.1.
“You will most certainly find over time that with Olaplex, your client’s hair will be much more plush-feeling and have more presence, more weight, more importance. Trust me on this.” says Chad.
Chad Kenyon is an Olaplex Ambassador, Colorist, and Balayage Expert based in Los Angeles and New York City. You can find him on Instagram @colorbychadkenyon. He works at both the Benjamin Salon in West Hollywood, CA and the Melville Pepino Salon in New York City.
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